Thursday, June 4, 2009

Summit Trail (Timpohon - Laban Rata)

在还没去之前,我就知道Timpohon的路线是一直走梯子,而且梯级都好大个,很高。结果事实当然是有好多梯级,似乎走不完的,而且梯级怎么这么地高,难道是做给巨人吗?其实应该是当初为了省钱和省时吧!加上当初开发的人也是外国人,所以就把梯级建得这么大和高吧!
在走了没多久后,我们都有些疲惫了,也许是才刚刚热身而已。这时候,我们也拿出昨天买的香焦来吃,补充体力和减轻包包的重量。好不容易到了第一个亭子,大家都休息边刻。由于之前有去过的人提醒不好休息太久,亭子就休息个5分钟,吃饭就不好超过30分钟, 以免休息太久让脚舒服后更辛苦走。所以,到了时间,我就负责催促大家时间到了,该继续上路了。而且,其他的山导说也许下午两点多就会下雨,所以脚步要放快些。


在起步点不远处,与summit trail的牌子前留影。

当到了第二个亭子时,我们在那里看到了很多松鼠,而且都不怕人的一直过来讨食物吃。也许是我们城市人没什么看过松鼠,结果松鼠就成为我们拍照的大明星,卡查卡查地不停。

我们继续的往上走。怎么梯级那么多的呀?心里在想还要走多久呀!休息过后的目的地就是下一个亭子。大家也希望我们能以1小时完成1公里。大家都显得有些累了。所以一路上拍拍照其实也是顺便偷赖休息。到了第三个亭子,我们在那里涂些counter pain,让肌肉在不会那么酸痛,隔天还能继续攻顶与下山。当时在那里还有3位挑夫在休息着,可是我们还是照涂我们的,不会觉得不好意思的,因为重点是能到顶。


在2.5KM处,大伙都显得精疲力尽了。

当到达第四个亭子时,我们在那里遇到三位来自台湾的登山客,而且有两位已经是半银发族了,50-60岁,应该是夫妇吧!聊过以后,知道他们来了好几天了,大约20人,爬完后隔一两天就要回去了。他们之前也时常有爬其他地区的大大小小的山,真是佩服他们。而另一位与他们同行的年青人,也分享他一路上拍到的猪笼草照片,在多多草堆里面就能找到,结果过后我留意后,还真的开始有发现猪笼草的终记。在这里也发生了一些小意外,viola的背包先不小心从椅子上掉在污水上。结果手忙脚忙地才要抹和洗一洗时,ziwei的背包也从椅子上掉在污水上。ziwei还说回去后还真多东西需要洗干净呢!

大约中午时分,我们好不容易终于到达下一个亭子,layang-layang hut,我们吃午餐的地方。这时候,layang-layang hut已经人山人海了,好多人都在这里休息吃午餐。我们从山导那拿了我们的饭盒准备准备医我们的五藏庙。饭盒里有几片面包,一片夹ham,两片夹乳酪,一小块炸鸡,鸡蛋,两个炸春圈,苹果,一瓶水和100plus。在这时候,吃这些都是刚刚好,而且也因为走了3-4小时后,有些人也没什么胃口吃太多。最好吃的就是面包了,popiah就不好吃,干干的。由于大多数的队友都算很小胃,我们把剩余没吃过的2-3盒拿给我们的山导吃,因为他们好像没有带吃的,而且也不会浪费。


终于到了4KM多的Layang-Layang Hut,很多人都在这里吃午餐。因为在上去些,就是和Mersilau的交界处。吃packed lunch前,来张合照。

大约休息个20-30分钟,我们就继续路程。接下来不远处就是timpohon与mersilau的交界处。如果我们从Mersilau上来,最少都还需要多2个小时才能到这里。由于越爬越高,这时天气也越来越冷了,景色也开始改变了,有些队友开始穿起外套了。当到达第六个亭子时,有一处大石头能看到好多雾,好多人都在那拍一拍照。过后,我们也在一棵在路中间的松树那拍了一些搞怪照片。其实这时体力也都用了好多,我就拿出刚才没吃的苹果一面走,一面吃,体力又觉得恢复了。

过了Mersilau的交界处后,景色有些不一样了。在路途中拍了一些照片。




加油!Kambateh!还有一段路就能到Laban Rata了!


来!拍张扮鬼脸。有人act cute,也有人act cool。。。



过后,我们也都变成3组人马了。我和ziwei,依晴开始走在前面。当走到最后1KM时,那段路程很美,而且也比较好走,因为那就好像是没了水的小溪路段,大大小小的美丽石头路,让我们可以暂时脱离没完没了的上梯级路段,欣赏与享受不一样的路程。在到达laban rata之前的最后一个亭子也在这里。我们只有在这时候没进亭子休息,也许是因为这段路程是全程最好走的吧,而且总觉得我们就快到了。

在最后一段路时,我们有遇到在timpohon gate遇到的两位登山客,其中一位曾经爬过的就一直说快到了。可是走了好久,都还没到呢!结果这句话就是每次爬山时,大多数鼓励人的话。不懂过了多久,我们终于看到一间小白屋,这时我们离laban rata resthouse也越来越近了,终于接近3.30pm时我们三人终于到了laban rata,好兴奋哦!过后我们三人坐在椅子或地上休息时简直是累倒了。其他队友,peggy和Annie也在不久后到达。Shereen和Janice也在5分钟后到达餐厅。Viola也在3.45pm顺利到达。我们一伙人就在餐厅的椅子上喝点热茶或咖啡休息,拿了房间的锁匙后,已经有行李的人就陆续去冲凉,准备等下吃晚餐。

By Chin2

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

神山路线

通常爬神山需要用两天的时间,除了在每年10月,沙巴旅游局都会举行攀登神山比赛(Mt. Kinabalu International Climbathon),被视为全球最艰辛的登山比赛之一的登山比赛,参赛者都用不可思义的速度从山脚登上顶峰,然后再返回山脚回到起点,男子组的参赛者能够在两个小时多完成,而女子组的冠军也能在三个小时多登上后在下到起点。就如当地的一位工作人员说的,2007年的男子公开赛是现在的保持者,他的速度简直就是神奇,攀登纪录是2小时36分钟,只能说应该是全程用跑的吧!

而大致登神山有两个出发点,从位于Kinabalu Park的Timpohon Gate(1800M)的summit trail,也就是攀登神山比赛的路线,到达在山腰的Laban Rata(3272.7M),那里有4间hut或resthouse可以让登山客休息一宿,接着在隔天凌晨2am-2.30am陆续出发攻顶至主峰,也就是Lows Peak,4095.2M,大约3-4小时就能到达,如果早到是有机会赶上欣赏日出,随后返回山下。

而另一条路线是从Mersilau出发,需要多走2KM和大约7-10个小时,但是风景比Summit trail优美许多。而选择从Mersilau上的人通常会下到Timpohon,因为这样比较轻松,而且如果成功攻顶能够拿到两张文凭。
其实在这几年,登神山又多了一个能满足喜欢刺激的人,那就是Via Ferrata。这条路线与正常的路线最大的不同就是有很多路线是要过钢索的,而且就在悬崖旁行走,非常地刺激,也能让人欣赏不同的风景。但是这条路线应该只适合喜欢刺激与不怕高的人吧!而且费用也比其他路线来得高。


Map for Mount Kinabalu

Chin2

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Kinabalu Park & Timpohon Gate

当到达Kinabalu Park之后,我已经看到有几组人在那里了,而且都是全副武装的。导游帮我们登记后,就分了登山证给我们, AH13,篇号001-008, 名字与登山日期都有印在登山证上。登山证有一句话写的非常好,那就是"Take nothing but photographs. Leave nothing but footprints"。所以,大家要记得照顾与保护神山是每个登山者应尽的责任。

寄放好不要用的行李在Kinabalu Park HQ,我们就见过我们的两位山导,Iring & Primus。而我们还有两位女生挑夫,porter。我们先一一秤我们要给porter的上山行李,一共7个行李,大致是每人5kg,最轻的是ziwei,才3kg,好厉害哦!过后,我们就秤一秤我们自己要背的包包。哇!原来我们的背包都有4kg那么重,当初我们还说最好带不超过2kg的背包。其实背包里也没放什么呀!只是雨衣,1liter水,一些吃的如巧克力,糖,饼干,薄的外套,还有应急的一些药物。而且我们的Packed lunch还是山导帮我们拿的。所以,其实我们也不知道为何背包会这么的重。过后两位女的挑夫,选一选重量能背得到的行李,剩下的就由我们两位山导负责背上去。之后我们乘坐大约十分钟的小巴从Kinabalu Park的HQ去到我们的登山起点-Timpohon Gate。


"会拿棍的八百只乌鸦"

大约9.30am,我们终于到了出发点。山导Mus先在路线图讲解我们会走的路线,在timpohon gate前拍了"会拿棍的八百只乌鸦"的团体照后,过后我们就抱着兴奋,紧张,期待的心情出发了。当时心里的呐喊"神山,我来了!"应该是最好的心情写照。

By Chin2

Monday, June 1, 2009

Mt. Kinabalu & Tales

京那巴魯山(馬來文:Gunung Kinabalu),又譯京那峇魯山、基納巴盧山、金乃巴羅山,又稱神山、中國寡婦山,位於馬來西亞沙巴的京那巴魯國家公園 又稱神山公園(Kinabalu National Park)是東南亞地区、馬來西亞、馬來群島和婆羅洲島最高峰,海拔4095米,以每年0.5公分的速度長高。 相傳在古時候,二位在廣州外海打漁的中國兄弟,不慎遇到颱風而漂流至沙巴,便在當地落地生根、娶了当地的土著为妻而生子,無奈兄弟倆都很懷念故鄉,便協議由哥哥先回故鄉探親後再帶一家回中國。怎知哥哥卻一去不回,大嫂便每天都站在山上翹首盼望着南中国海希望能看到丈夫的回来,她风雨不改,直到老死,後人為了紀念這偉大的愛情故事,便把此山命名為「中國寡婦山」。

京那巴魯山于2000年登錄自然遺產, 評定標準为自然遺產(ix)(x).


Mount Kinabalu (Malay: Gunung Kinabalu) is a prominent mountain in Southeast Asia. It is located in Kinabalu National Park (a World Heritage Site) in the east Malaysian state of Sabah, which is on the island of Borneo in the tropics.

The mountain and its surroundings are among the most important biological sites in the world, with over 600 species of ferns, 326 species of birds, and 100 mammalian species identified. Among them are the gigantic Rafflesia plants and the orangutan. Mount Kinabalu has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status.

The main peak of the mountain (Low's Peak) can be climbed easily by a person with a good physical condition, and requires no mountaineering equipment. Other peaks along the massif, however, require rock climbing skills.


Tales

"Kina Balu from Pinokok Valley" - lithograph published in 1862
There are two stories that led to the main beliefs in the origin of the mountain's name.
The first derivation of the word Kinabalu is extracted from the short form for the Kadazan Dusun word 'Aki Nabalu', meaning "the revered place of the dead".
The second source states that the name "Kinabalu" actually means "Cina Balu" (which would fully mean "A Chinese Widow"). Due to the lingual influence among the Kadazan Dusun of Sabah, the pronunciation for the word "cina" (chee-na) was changed to "Kina" (kee-na).
It was told that a Chinese, was cast away to Borneo when his ship sank in the middle of the South China Sea. He was subsequently rescued by the natives from a nearby village. As he recovered, he was slowly accepted as one of the people of the village. Eventually, he fell in love with a local girl, and married her. Years went by, and he started to feel homesick. So he asked permission from his newly-found family to go back to China to visit his parents. To his wife, he promised that as soon as he was done with his chores in China, he would come back to Borneo to take her and their children back to China.
When he made his return to China, he was given a grand welcome by his family. However, to his dismay, his parents disagreed with him about taking his Bornean wife back to China. Having no choice (due to high respect towards his parents), he obeyed with a heavy heart.

Meanwhile, back in Borneo, his wife grew more and more anxious. Eventually, she decided that she will wait for her husband's ship. However, since the village was situated far away from the coast, she couldn't afford to come to the shore and wait for him daily. Instead she decided to climb to the top of the highest mountain near her village, so that she could have a better view of the ships sailing in the South China Sea. Thus, she was then seen climbing up the mountain at every sunrise, returning only at night to attend to her growing children.

Eventually her efforts took their toll. She fell ill, and died at the top of the cold mountain while waiting for her husband. The spirit of the mountain, having observed her for years, was extremely touched by her loyalty towards her husband. Out of admiration for this woman, the spirit of the mountain turned her into a stone. Her face was made to face the South China Sea, so that she could wait forever for her dear husband's return.

The people in her hometown who heard about this were also gravely touched by this. Thus, they decided to name the mountain "Kinabalu" in remembrance of her. To them, the mountain is a symbol of the everlasting love and loyalty that should be taken as a good example by women.

Local legend among the people of Ranau, a district in Sabah, has it that St. John's Peak was the stone which her body was turned into.

Source from Wikipedia.


This is St. John's Peak & it looks like woman's face. 据说这个就是传说中的寡妇变成的石头。